Cherry blossoms in the snow

As I type this, it is snowing outside my window. Very fine snow, twirling almost vertically in the fierce north-easterly wind. Slow to settle as the ground isn't quite frozen enough at the moment, but that will change in the next couple of days; It is still very much winter here. 

An odd time then, perhaps, to talk about spring designs and flower motifs. Or maybe perfectly timed - I get impatient for light and colour by about the middle of January, itching to cast off the thick, heavy layers and see something other than brown everywhere. Time to begin planning ahead? I don't know about you, but I'm a reactive, impulsive maker by nature. I feel cold and decide to make mittens, or realise I only have 10 days to knit a birthday gift and then just start. 

But that obviously isn't how the fashion industry works, so I finished the samples for spring back in November and right now I'm working on bits and pieces for summer. I find it funny, to be so out of sync with what's going on outside my window, but it's also useful. I'm trying to be more intentional with my making, less impulsive, so that I'll have what I need when I actually want to wear it. 

Here it is, then, one for the spring wardrobe: Hanabira. 

Image credit: Nicole Mlakar for Pom Pom Quartely

A cropped cardigan as whimsical as you can imagine. The flower detail in the colourwork bands in particular involved, literally, a flight of fancy; I cast my mind back to the birthdays I spent living in Japan, every year, when the cherry blossoms came out right on cue (or so it felt to me). "Hanabira" is Japanese for "flower petal". 

The rest of the cardigan is both easy to make and practical to wear. Top down with simple increases and some quick seaming at the sleeves. If you want a longer length on the hem (as in the top photo) or the sleeves, you just keep going before you get to the colourwork. The button band and collar are worked directly into the selvedge edges (there's a ribbing tutorial to accompany this pattern, in case you get stuck). 

The yarn is Ulysse by De Rerum Natura, a non-superwash 100% merino 2-ply (sport) from ethically reared European sheep. It feels properly "sheepy" too - slightly crunchy and much more structured than the heavily processed, slinky superwash merino we seem to have become so used to. I loved working with it and plan to revisit this brand in the future. 

Hanabira is one of nine designs in issue 20 of Pom Pom Quarterly. The whole collection, indeed the entire magazine, is utterly delightful and I'm thrilled to be a part of it. I hear copies are almost ready to be shipped and, in the spirit of planning ahead and all that, I intend to cast on a Bombus or a Melli as soon as it lands in my letter box. You can order your own copy on Pom Pom's order page.

PATTERN + TUTORIAL: Lomma Hat

It's been a while since I did a freebie pattern, don't you think? This chunky hat was inspired by our many trips to a beach town nearby. I love it there no matter what the season but, my goodness, the wind doesn't half go through you for about 10 months out of 12! 

A super-warm hat was needed, the kind you can pull right down over your ears. And, at this dismally dark time of year, you do need a bit of colour to go with the grey too, of course.

The Lomma hat uses the in-the-round version of the Woven Shell stitch. Written instructions for this variation are given below, but you can also find a step-by-step photo tutorial of the flat version here. It's one of those stitches that takes a little practice at first, but which grows quickly once you get the hang of it.

It's a very speedy little make and, as you can see from the photos, I ended up with a nice stack to give away this Christmas! 

While we're talking of giving, there's something I'd like you to consider doing in return for this free pattern. Not for me, but for the thousands of people for whom this time of year isn't necessarily filled with joy and gifts. It would be wonderful if you could make a donation to a charity of your choosing for, say, about €4.00 ($4.00 / £3.35) - the amount I usually charge for a paid pattern - or whatever you can afford. My own charity of choice is Medecins Sans Frontieres, whose medics deliver (often at great personal risk) emergency aid to people affected by armed conflict, epidemics, healthcare exclusion and natural or man-made disasters. You can find the link for making a donation from wherever you are here: http://www.msf.org/en/donate.

You don't have to, of course, but if you do - thank you!

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Lomma Hat

Materials
5mm (H/8) crochet hook, or as required to obtain gauge
scissors
wool needle
Yarn: DROPS Nepal (65% wool, 25% alpaca; aran; 75m per 50g); 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) balls each in light grey 0500/off-white 0100/goldenrod 2923 OR medium grey 0517/light grey 0500/purple 4434 OR light grey 0500/medium grey 0517/goldenrod 2923 OR medium grey 0517/light grey 0500/medium blue 6220

Yarn alternatives
Any aran weight yarn, such as alpaca, merino or other sheep’s wool will work well for this design. 

Total yardage required
110 (130, 150, 180, 200) m / 120 (145, 165, 200, 220) yds
NB: allow extra if adding pompom

Gauge
12 x 12 cm/5” x 5” = 3 repeats and 6 rows of woven shell pattern (see tension square instructions)

Sizing
Baby (Toddler, Child, Adult Small, Adult Large) - to fit head circumference 35.5 (40.5, 45.5, 53, 58.5) cm / 14 (16, 18, 21, 23) inches
This hat is designed to fit snugly, with up to 5cm/2” negative ease. The brim is very stretchy. Check your gauge to ensure the right fit.
Between sizes? Follow instructions for the largest size closest to your measurement, but go down half a hook size for the brim.

Special stitches (see step-by-step photos at the bottom of this post) 
FHTC – foundation half treble crochet
BPTC - back post treble crochet
FPTC - front post treble crochet
SCDC - standing chainless double crochet
WS st - woven shell st
(see tension square instructions and flat WS tutorial)

Stitches & Abbreviations
beg of rnd – beginning of round
BLO – back loop only
ch –  chain
TC – treble crochet
rnd - round
sl st – slip stitch

Tension square instructions (same as flat WS tutorial)
Ch 21
Row 1: Skip 6. Working into the 7th ch, TC 3,  ch 3. Going backwards, skip 1, then TC 3 in the 5th ch. *Going forwards again, skip 1 from the first 3-TC group and TC 1. Skip 3, TC 3 in the next st, ch 3. Going backwards, skip 1, TC 3. Repeat from * until 2 sts remain. TC 1 in the last ch. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 TC), then TC 3 in the same st. DC 1 around the top of the ch 3 of the woven shell underneath. Skip the whole of the next 3-TC group, then TC 3 in the second (i.e. middle) TC of the next 3-TC group. Ch 3, then go back and TC 3 into the second (i.e. middle) TC of the 3-TC group just skipped to complete the Woven Shell. 
DC 1 around the top of the ch 3 of the woven shell underneath. Skip the whole of the next 3-TC group, then TC 3 in the second (i.e. middle) TC of the next 3-TC group. Ch 3, then go back and TC 3 into the second (i.e. middle) TC of the 3-TC group just skipped. 
DC 1 around the top of the ch 3 of the woven shell underneath. Skip the whole of the next 3-TC group, then TC 4 into the top of the turning chain of the previous row. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 TC), skip the whole of the 4-TC group, then TC 3 in the second TC of the next 3-TC group. Ch 3, then go back and TC 3 into the third TC of the 4-TC group just skipped.
* DC 1 around the top of the ch 3 of the woven shell underneath. Skip the whole of the next 3-TC group, then TC 3 in the second TC of the next 3-TC group. Ch 3, then go back and TC 3 into the second TC of the 3-TC group just skipped. Repeat from * until last st. TC 1 in the last ch 1 space. 
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until 6 rows in total have been worked.

Pattern instructions

Pattern notes

• UK terms

• This hat is worked in the round from the bottom up. Join up each round with a slip stitch.

• Starting chains at the beginning of each brim round do not count as stitches.

• Do not cut colours not needed for next round. After joining with a sl st, sl st into the next st, pull up a tall loop and pass ball of yarn through, pull tight and leave on the inside until needed again.

Brim
With C1, FHTC 48 (54, 60, 72, 78). Join for working in the round with a sl st into the BLO of the 2nd ch, taking care not to twist the work.
Rnd 1: ch 2, *FPTC 1 , BPTC 1; rep from * around. Join.

Rep rnd 1 another 4 (5, 5, 4, 4) times, joining to the first FPTC on the last round.

Woven Shell pattern
WS set-up rnd: With C2, ch 3, *skip 3, TC 3 in the next st, ch 3, skip 1 going backwards, TC 3 around 1st 3-TC group in next st, skip 1 from 1st 3-TC group, TC 1 in next st; rep from * around. Join to 3rd ch of starting ch with a sl st. 

Next rnd: With C3, SCDC around 3-ch between 3-TC groups of first shell of prev row (see step-by-step photos at the bottom of this post). *Skip the whole of the next 3-TC group, then TC 3 in the second (i.e. middle) TC of the next 3-TC group. Ch 3, then go back and TC 3 into the second (i.e. middle) TC of the 3-TC group just skipped. DC 1 around 3-ch; rep from * around. Join last shell to SCDC with a sl st. 
Next rnd: rep previous rnd with C2.

Rep last 2 rnds until a total of 5 (6, 7, 9, 10) rnds of WS have been worked, inc. set-up rnd. Cut yarn, leaving a 20 cm/8” tail for sewing.

Finishing
Thread tail through wool needle and pass through every 3-ch gap. Pull tight to close and weave in on the inside. Weave in remaining ends. If desired, make a pompom using your method of choice and sew onto the top of the hat.

Easy enough once you get going right? Although if you do get stuck, you're always welcome to get in touch. Tag your finished makes #lommahat and #emmyandlien - I love to see them!

Written pattern copyright Eline Alcocer 2015.
You are welcome to make and use this pattern as you wish, but please do not sell the pattern nor claim the pattern as your own.
You are welcome to sell any item made using this pattern, but please credit the designer, Eline Alcocer, at the point of sale.
Please link back to this page if you write about the pattern in any way. 
You may not reproduce the photos, pattern or tutorial, either partially or in full, contained in this post without obtaining written permission from me first. 
If you would like to produce your own photo tutorial, video tutorial or translation of this pattern, please get in touch with me to obtain permission first. 
Thank you!

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Step-by-step photos

FHTC - Foundation Half Treble Crochet

FPTC - Front Post Treble Crochet

BPTC - Back Post Treble Crochet

SCDC - Standing Chainless Double Crochet 

PATTERN: Nordic Pixie Mittens

Have you ever tried tapestry crochet? Despite its name, it has nothing (necessarily) to do with making rugs. It's just a technique in which you use two or more colours, whereby the strands not in use are carried along inside the stitches as you work. It creates a dense and, depending on the fibre you use, very warm fabric. All across Scandinavia and north-eastern Europe you see knitters using their version of this technique, with good reason:  It creates a dense, warm and - if you use 100% wool - water-resistant fabric.

These little mittens, with their simple striped pattern, are the perfect introduction to the tapestry crochet technique in a Nordic style. Three colour scheme suggestions are included in the pattern, but of course you are free to make up your own – they are great little stash busters!

Step-by-step photos of the trickier techniques - foundation crochet, changing colours, crochet ribbing - are included at the bottom of the pattern. There's also a variation for a rounded tip, if you'd prefer a little less pointed pixieness.

Difficulty level 
This pattern is perfect for advanced beginners who want to move away from crocheting only straight lines, try some new stitches and learn about simple colourwork and shaping to make a cute, wearable item. 
As the colour charts are very simple, intermediate and advanced crocheters will also enjoy this pattern as a quick, fun and practical little gift for any little people in their lives.

Materials 
2.75mm (C/2) and 2.25mm (B/1) crochet hooks, or as required to obtain gauge
scissors
wool needle
stitch marker
Yarn for all sizes: three colours of DROPS Alpaca (167m/183yds per 50g)

Yarn alternatives 
Any 4-ply wool or alpaca yarn. Using a 100% wool will ensure water-resistance. If you’re new to tapestry crochet, choose a smoother yarn such as DROPS Baby Alpaca Silk or a merino blend. It will snag less easily if you make a mistake and need to rip back.

Sizing 
0-2 (2-4, 4-6, 6-8, 8-10) 
When made to size, this mitten fits snuggly around the hand and wrist with a little wriggle room at the top. The long ribbed cuff will stop the mitten from falling off, so you can make a size larger in anticipation of small hands growing. Check your gauge to ensure the right fit.

Tension 
10 x 10 cm/4” x 4” = 26 sts x 27 rows over DC using at least two colours.

Stitches + Skills 
Basic crochet stitches, working in the round, tapestry crochet, crochet ribbing.

You can purchase the PDF download in US and UK terms from my Ravelry store now. Until Friday 9 December 2016, I'm offering a 30% discount - just enter code PIXIE30 at checkout. 

€3.50 (plus VAT if applicable)

As you can see, they make an adorable little set with the V-stitch Scrappy Neckwarmer, for which you can find a free tutorial here!

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I'm linking up this post with Moogly Blog and Petals to Picots

It's so FLUFFAY!!

My last two magazine designs for this winter were published today and, I have to say, I think they might be my favourites for the year. Both appear in this month's Crochet Now, which has "stash busting" as its main theme. As a relentless hoarder of random bits of yarn, it felt particularly apt to be involved in this issue...

The first design is a divinely soft, lacy scarf called "Floss". For the sample in the magazine I used Rowan Kidsilk Haze and Rowan Fine Lace, with 2.5mm and 3.0mm hooks. If that sounds tiny, don't worry - the scarf works up much faster than you'd think. The yarn goes a really long way too, so you won't need much of it. 

If you've followed me on instagram for a while, Floss will probably look familiar. I first made an ombre version of it back in April. The feedback then was really positive, so I hope to see lots of you making your own version of this design! 

The second design is for a little baby jacket and I just want to squeeze the little model CN have used for the pictures!!! 

I'm particularly pleased with the construction of this jacket. It's worked flat in one piece, then quickly and easily seamed up at the sides and under the arms. Again, the idea is that you use up leftover yarn in whatever colours you happen to have lying around. We used four contrasting colours of Sublime cashmerino, plus a trim in white and grey to give the whole thing a neat finish. 

Issue 9 of Crochet Now is in UK shops now, or you can buy a digital version through any of the platforms listed on CN's where to buy page.

Because everyone needs a poncho

Let's not think about the fact it's pouring with rain, that we've had two bed-wetting incidents in as many days, or that I'd put on 7 loads of laundry before 10 AM today.

Let's instead think about the spiced carrot. banana and coconut cake I've just taken out of the oven (Green Kitchen Stories' first cookbook, you're welcome), and be thankful for the Swedish habit to install industrial laundry facilities in apartment buildings. Let's also think of crunchy leaves, woodland walks and cosy layers.

Let's have a look at my latest design for Crochet Now magazine, the Woodland Poncho! 

Worked in the round using grit stitch with soft, bouncy DROPS Merino Big (an aran yarn), this is a very quick make for boys and girls alike. Like all my garments, this poncho is designed as a practical layering piece that gives warmth without restricting movement. The pompom could, of course, not be resisted by either myself or the Bean. 

For the striped panel I looked to traditional fairisle motifs, while the colours were inspired by the season's last flowers: heather, aster, field scabacious. 

I envisaged the Woodland Poncho would be worn by intrepid little explorers on their autumn or winter walks. The little girl the team at Crochet Now used as a model certainly looks adorable in it, don't you think? 

Issue 8 of Crochet Now is available to buy in print in the UK now, while those abroad can pick up a digital copy through any of the platforms listed in CN's where to buy page.

PATTERN: The Peach Pocket Tunic

It's here!!! Finally, finally I am ready to re-release this pattern. I say re-release, because you might have seen it knocking about on Pinterest for a while. I first published it on my old blog in the spring of 2015, in one size only. I did promise there would be more sizes, so ta-da!

I didn't quite intend for it to take this long, but there has been a very good reason for the delay. I wanted it to be perfect. So really, this is a completely re-worked pattern. I made another sample in the most deliciously soft organic cotton. The instructions are more concise and easier to understand. When I'd finished writing the pattern my editor pored over it for hours and my team of testers did a wonderful job, providing feedback that allowed me to iron out the last kinks. I'm really, really happy with it and I hope you will be too. 

You can purchase a copy of this pattern, in either UK or US terms, from my Ravelry store now. 

The Peach Pocket Tunic offers a modern, wearable take on crochet garments. Made in soft 8-ply (DK), it’s a cute piece for any time of the year – wear on its own or with a layer underneath, team with pretty shoes or funky wellies. The possibilities are endless, making this a kiddie wardrobe staple! 

The pattern is worked from the bottom up in 4 sections: back panel, front panel, and 2 sleeves that are seamed onto to the front and back in a raglan construction. The ribbed collar and hems are worked directly into the edges. Finally, 2 pockets are worked separately and sewn on.

The stitch pattern is a very simple SC worked alternately in the front and back loop. It gives a wonderful texture and a much better drape than you’d normally expect from a SC. 

Difficulty level
This pattern is aimed at intermediate crocheters who want to create a well-fitting, more tailored garment. It uses an easy stitch (SC worked in FLO and BLO) and clever shaping techniques. Full written instructions as well as stitch diagrams and schematics are included. If you're more of a beginner crocheter, don't feel intimidated by this pattern - a separate blog post full of tips, photos and tricks is on its way! A step-by-step photo tutorial for the ribbing is available already.

Materials
E/4 (3.5mm)  & D/3 (3.0mm) hooks, or as required to obtain gauge
scissors
wool needle
yarn: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) x 50 g ball of MoYa Whisper Mint (Main Color - MC); 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3) x 50 g ball of MoYa Whisper Peche (Contrast Color - CC)

Yardage
MC 325 (350, 380, 420, 550, 620) m  / MC 355 (385, 420, 460, 605, 680) yds
CC 100 (130, 200, 260, 300, 390) m/ CC 110 (145, 220, 285, 330, 430) yds

Yarn alternatives
Choose a lightweight (also referred to as DK or 8-ply) yarn. I recommend using 100% cotton or a cotton/merino blend for summer to mid-season, and a merino/silk or alpaca/silk blend for winter.

Sizing
12-18M (24M, 2-4Y, 4-6Y, 6-8Y, 8-10Y)

Tension
Body: 10 x 10 cm = 17 sts x 17 rows over DC in FLO/BLO, using larger hook.
Ribbing & pockets: 10 x 10 cm = 22 sts x 6 repeats of ribbing pattern, using smaller hook.

Stitches + Skills
Basic crochet stitches, crochet ribbing, decreasing, short row shaping, basic sewing skills

You can purchase the PDF download in US and UK terms from my Ravelry store now.

€4.50 (plus VAT if applicable)

Until Friday 21 October 2016, I'm offering a 20% discount - just enter code PEACH20 at checkout. Or, for extra crochet kiddie goodness, you can purchase this pattern as a bundle with the Sea Breeze Hoodie for €7.00. Add both patterns to your basket and the price will automatically be updated. Also valid until Friday 21 October! 

I'm linking up this post with Moogly Blog and Petals to Picots

Lately...

... it's been a little quiet around here, hasn't it. There's something fairly epic going on at the home front, which has been all-consuming. Soon, I hope, I will have proper news and also get back into a normal routine. For now, I just thought I'd pop in and announce my latest pattern release. If you've been following me for a while and you squint hard at the picture below, you may recognise it!

Edit: The Bretonbone Top is now also available for individual purchase from my Ravelry store.

Crochet Now issue 6. Image courtesy of Practical Publishing

Yep, that stripey yellow and white tee in the little inset is none other than my Bretonbone Top. It was picked up by Crochet Now earlier in the year, when I was about halfway through designing it, and I can't tell you how excited I am about finally seeing it "live" in a magazine. 

It's a DK-weight top that suits lots of different fibres - cotton for summer, cotton+merino for autumn, alpaca for winter. I've made versions in the latter two, and they are both so very very wearable. If you look closely, you'll see that the stitch used isn't quite your standard Half Treble. It's in fact the Herringbone Half Treble, which has this interesting slanty thing going on. 

In terms of construction, you make the front and back panels, seam them together, then work the cap sleeves into the selvedge edges. I am a bit pleased with the cap sleeves, not least because they took AYGES to get right. Don't they look cute?

There's also a wee crab stitch edge at the bottom, which is now my favourite edging method ever and I want to put it on everything. 

The Bretonbone Top is in issue 6 of Crochet Now, which is on sale at newsagents in the UK from today (September 8). If you're elsewhere, you can also pick up a digital copy - just click on any of the digital media platforms listed on Crochet Now's Where To Buy page.

Edit: The Bretonbone Top is now also available for individual purchase from my Ravelry store.

PATTERN: The Sea Breeze Hoodie

When it became apparent we'd be moving from Italy to Sweden, my immediate thought was: we'll freeze! Don't get me wrong, as a pale-skinned redhead I wasn't sorry to say goodbye to months of humidity and heat (we lived in a smoggy city, not by a beautiful lake or beach!). It was, nevertheless, clear that we would need a little wardrobe adjusting. Out with the flimsy dresses and tiny tanks, in with sensible windproofs. Because, oh my, is it windy here. Even on a lovely, sunny summer's day it can howl straight through you. Windproof jacket, warm and practical layer underneath. The Sea Breeze Hoodie, the perfect summer staple on Scandi shores.

Does practical exclude fun and frivolous? Certainly not: mismatched buttons and bright yellow sleeves. Soft, soft organic cotton. A quick and easy construction with minimal shaping, and there you go. The perfect summer to midseason layer for boys and girls aged 12 months to 10 years and ´lucky` enough to live in windier climes. 

You can purchase the PDF download in US and UK terms from my Ravelry store now.

The Sea Breeze Hoodie is worked in three panels from the bottom up: one for the back and two for the front, which are then seamed together. Both the hood and the ribbed sleeves are worked seamlessly into the selvedge edges. Finally, the piece can be finished with either buttons or a zip – this pattern includes instructions for both. 

Difficulty level
This pattern uses an easy stitch pattern (linen stitch) and simple shaping, making it perfect for confident beginners who want to venture into garment-making. The pattern comes with full written instructions as well as stitch diagrams and schematics. A step-by-step photo tutorial for the ribbing is available here.

Materials
4mm and 3.5mm crochet hook (US size G/6 and E/4), or as required to meet gauge
scissors
wool needle
buttons or zip
yarn: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6) x 50 g skein of Pickles Thin Organic Cotton in Sea Water 06 (MC); 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) x 50 g skein of Pickles Thin Organic Cotton in Sun 21 (CC)

Yardage
MC 190 (250, 300, 350, 420, 580) m / MC 210 (275, 330, 385, 460, 635) yds
CC 90 (90, 90, 90, 90, 90) m / CC 100 (100, 100, 100, 100, 100) yds

Yarn alternatives
Choose a light to medium-weight yarn (DK to worsted, or 8 to 10-ply) with a soft handle and a recommended hook size of E/4 to 7 (4.0mm to 4.5mm). I recommend using 100% cotton or a cotton/merino blend, as these feel non-prickly against the skin. 

Sizing
12M (24M, 2-4Y, 4-6Y, 6-8Y, 8-10Y)

Tension
a 10x10 cm (4" x 4") swatch should consist of 15 rows of 16 stitches, using larger hook.

Stitches + Skills
Basic crochet stitches, basic shaping, short row shaping (explained with diagram), basic sewing skills

You can purchase the PDF download in US and UK terms from my Ravelry store now.

€4.50 (plus VAT if applicable)

I'm linking up this post with Moogly Blog and Petals to Picots

CROCHET RECIPE: The Dally Dahlia Blanket - Part One

{A Crochet Recipe: a rough guide on how to produce a crochet item, as opposed to a proper pattern which involves more maths than the designer had brain cells for at the time of casting on}

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We all need a mindless, "see how it turns out" project from time to time, don't we? I started this blanket last autumn, after impulse-buying a basket full of discounted cotton. It was the lovely bright colours that did it, you see. IrREsistible. 

At the time the darkness of the Swedish winter was already setting in fast and disrupting my normal sleep-wake pattern. I needed the happy colours. I also wanted something easy yet interesting - I do not deal well with repetition. 

I opened my stitch dictionary and tried the Uneven Berry. Added a few granny stripes. Then one of my favourite stitches, the Herringbone Half Treble. Finally, some easy Dally Dahlia granny squares, for which a full pattern and photo tutorial is available here. 

And there you have it, the beginning of a crochet blanket recipe. The stitches are all based on different multiples and I haven't bothered to try to make them fit. So it's a pretty wonky blanket. But: blocking. It'll be fine. 

If you'd like to make your own, slightly wonky but decidedly happy blanket, read on...

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Dally Dahlia Blanket - Part One

Materials

• 3.5mm crochet hook
• wool needle 
• 4 balls each of Sandes Garn Mandarin Naturell in Gul (A), Sjogronn (B), Petrol (C), Cerise (D) and Natur (E)
• yarn alternative: any DK cotton yarn will work for this blanket 

Special Stitches

• Herringbone Half Treble Crochet (HHTC):
• Uneven Berry (UB) - free photo tutorial here

Recipe Notes

• The Dally Dahlia Blanket is worked in sections of stripes, and strips of Dally Dahlia Granny Squares. The sections and strips are then sewn together using the whip stitch. 
• The recipe is written in UK terms. 
• Always change colour on the final step of the last stitch of the previous row. 

Recipe instructions

 

 

Section one (bottom)

Make a starting chain of 106 (= a multiple of 3, plus 1) in colour A

Rows 1-19: Uneven Berry stitch

Rows 20-24: Granny Trebles in colour B

Rows 25-29: Herringbone Half Treble Crochet in colour C

Rows 30-31: HHTC in colour E

Attach 6 joined Dally Dahlia Granny Squares, worked in colour D

 

Section two (middle 1)

Make a starting chain of 106 (= a multiple of 3, plus 1) in colour E

Rows 1-2: HHTC

Rows 3-7: HHTC in colour B

Rows 8-12: Granny Trebles in colour C

Rows 13-26: UB in colour D

Rows 27-31: Granny Trebles in colour B

Rows 32-36: HHTC in colour C

Rows 37-38: HHTC in colour E

Attach 6 joined Dally Dahlia Granny Squares, worked in colour A

 

 

Section three (middle 2)

Make a starting chain of 106 (= a multiple of 3, plus 1) in colour E

Rows 1-2: HHTC

Rows 3-7: HHTC in colour D

Rows 8-12: Granny Trebles in colour C

Rows 13-26: UB in colour A

Rows 27-31: Granny Trebles in colour C

Rows 32-36: HHTC in colour D

Rows 37-38: HHTC in colour E

(Attach 6 joined Dally Dahlia Granny Squares, worked in colour B)

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This is where I am up to. I've got a few granny squares on the go, and I've started the last section.  

In Part Two, I'll share that last section with you as well as details on the border. Not that I've thought that far yet, but I have been toying with the idea of incorporating some leftover jersey. Don't the colours just work perfectly?

Written pattern copyright Eline Alcocer 2016.
You are welcome to make and use this pattern as you wish, but please do not sell the pattern nor claim the pattern as your own.
You are welcome to sell any item made using this pattern, but please credit the designer, Eline Alcocer.
Please link back to this page if you write about the pattern in any way. 
You may not reproduce the photos, pattern or instructions, either partially or in full, contained in this post without obtaining written permission from me first. 
Thank you!

PATTERN + TUTORIAL: Raspberry Ripple Sampler Square

In this tutorial I will show you how to work the “Uneven Berry” crochet stitch. It produces a fairly dense texture that is perfect for all sorts of accessories such as pillow covers, coasters, dishcloths, and bags. You could also use it as part of a stitch sampler blanket, which is what I'll be doing with these little squares eventually!

The bumpy, rippled texture is created by alternating rows of Uneven Berry stitch and ordinary Double Crochets (Single Crochet if you're in the US) + slip stitches. It's not the most intuitive of stitch patterns - you really need to pay attention to the beginning and end of each row to keep the work going straight - but I think it's worth persevering to get those lovely little bobbles. I've included a diagram, so if you know how to read these I recommend printing it out to refer to as you work (I know I need to do this!).

The Uneven Berry stitch looks good in a variety of yarns, from lightweight cotton to heavy wool. I would, however, steer clear of any "hairy yarns" like mohair or alpaca and go for a smooth yarn containing cotton, linen, merino or silk. That way the berries really stand out.

Materials
2.5 mm crochet hook
4-ply yarn (for these samples I've used DMC Natura Just Cotton in Gris Argent (A), Amaranto or Jade (B), and Ivory (C))

Stitches + Abbreviations
Chain - ch
Double Crochet - DC
Slip Stitch - sl st
Uneven Berry - UB - yo and insert hook into next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop on hook, yo and insery hook into the same st again, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all five loops on the hook, ch 1 to lock the st. <- STEP-BY-STEP PHOTOS BELOW!

Finished Dimensions
10 cm x 10 cm

Difficulty
Intermediate

Notes
This pattern uses UK crochet terms.
Unless otherwise stated, the ch 1 at the beginning of a new row does not count as a stitch.

Instructions

Starting chain:
Work an even no. of chains. For this sample, I've worked 20 in colour A.

R1: 
Turn and DC 1 in the 2nd ch. DC 1 in each ch to end, changing to colour B on the last step of the last st. Turn (19 st) 

R2: 
Ch 1, DC 1 in the first st. You will now work the first UB: yo, insert hook in the next st and pull up a loop. 

Yo again and pull through the 1st loop on the hook only. 

Yo, insert hook into the same st and pull up another loop. You now have 5 loops on your hook.

Yo and pull through all 5 loops on the hook. Ch 1 to "lock" the first UB. 

Sl st into the next st. 

To continue the Row: *UB 1 in the next st, sl st 1 in the next st; repeat from * to end. Turn.

R3:
You now need to work a row that alternates DC and sl st. Each DC goes in the ch 1 you used to "lock" the UB, and each sl st goes in the top of the UB itself. You do not work into the sl sts of the previous row.

Ch 1, skip the first sl st and DC in the ch of the previous row. * sl st in the next st, skip the sl st of the previous row, DC 1 in the nex st; repeat from * to end. Work the last DC into the first DC of the previous row. Change to Colour C on the final step of this DC. Turn.

R4:
Ch 1, DC 1 in the firs st, sl st 1 in the next st. * UB 1 in the next st (the DC of the previous row), sl st 1 in the next st (the sl st of the previous row); repeat from * until 1 st remains. DC 1 in the last st. Turn. 

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R5: 
Ch 1, DC 1 in the first st. * Skip the sl st of the previous row, DC 1 in the next st, sl st 1 in the nex st; repeat from * until 2 sts remain. DC 1 in the next st (the sl st of the previous row), sl st 1 in the final st. Turn.

R6: 
With colour B, ch 1 and repeat R2: DC 1 in the first st. *UB 1 in the next st, sl st 1 in the next st; repeat from * to end. Turn.

R7: 
Repeat R3.

R8: 
Repeat R4.

R9:
Repeat R5.

Continue repeating Rows 2-5 until you have 21 rows in total. The back of the work should be flat, and the front of the work bobbly.

Finishing the square:

Attach colour C to any st along the top row, then sl st 1 in each stitch. Do not turn, but sl st 1 into the side of each row, then sl st 1 into each of starting chains, then sl st 1 into the side of each row, until you've gone all the way round. There are now 19 sl st worked into the top row and the starting chain, and 21 sl st in each of the sides.

Do not turn, but ch 1 (counts as 1 st) then DC 1 directly behind each sl st until 1 st remains before the corner. DC 2 behind the last st. Ch 1, then go down the side: DC 1 directly behind each sl st to end. Ch 1, DC 2 into the first st of the starting ch, then DC 1 directly behind each sl st until 1 st remains before the corner. DC 2 behind the last st. Ch 1, then DC 1 directly behind each sl st. Ch 1, DC 2 behind the first sl st on the top row. Join to first ch with a sl st. You now have 21 DCs on all four sides of the square. Cut yarn and fasten off. 

Attach colour B to any DC, ch 1 (counts as 1 st), then DC 1 into each DC of the previous row. In each ch 1 space on the corners, work [DC 1, ch 1, DC 1]. When you've gone all the way round, join to first ch with a sl st. Cut yarn and fasten off. Done! 

Now block the square by pinning it out into an even shape onto a blocking mat or piece of thick cardboard covered in a face towel. Spray with water and leave to dry. Once dry, it should look square rather than a bit wobbly!

If you make the Raspberry Ripple, do share it on social media by using the hashtag #raspberryripplesquare and tagging me on instagram or twitter. You can also come and join me on the Emmy + LIEN facebook page. 

If you would like to find out more about the Crochet meets Patchwork blanket, which these squares will end up in, have a look at the Project Guide.

I'm linking up with Moogly and Petals to Picots for Hookin on Hump Day

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Written pattern copyright Eline Alcocer 2016. 
You are welcome to make and use this pattern as you wish, but please do not sell the pattern nor claim the pattern as your own. 
You are welcome to sell items made using this pattern as long as the designer, Eline Alcocer, is clearly credited at the Point of Sale. 
Please link back to this page if you write about the pattern in any way. 
You may not reproduce, either partially or in full, any of the photos or the text contained in this post without obtaining written permission from me first. 
Thank you and happy crocheting!