Crochet, Handmade Wardrobe, Knitting, inspiration, Sewing, yarn Eline @emmy+LIEN Crochet, Handmade Wardrobe, Knitting, inspiration, Sewing, yarn Eline @emmy+LIEN

Maker's Maintenance - Getting the most out of your knitwear and crochetwear

A while ago I ran a poll on Instagram, asking whether anyone wanted to see how I look after my knit & crochet wear. The overwhelming response was "yes", …

Makers Maintenance - Getting the most out of your knit & crochet wear

A while ago I ran a poll on Instagram, asking whether anyone wanted to see how I look after my knit & crochet wear. The overwhelming response was "yes", but then WOOSH SeptOctNovBERBERBER happened, there was no light to photograph anything by, the kiddos were off school, etc etc. Here we are in late November (well into the woolly season for us), and I haven't shown anyone a thing.

BUT Lo and Behold we got some good natural light last week. So. Would you like to see how I look after my yarny things?

To my mind, rather a lot goes into "looking after" your clothes, starting from before you even make a purchase (whether that be for a finished item or for the materials to make one). To simplify things, however, let's assume you have yarny things in the wardrobe, and you want them to last. Then, let's make categories:

  1. General care

  2. Fixing problems

  3. Resources


1. GENERAL CARE

It may sound rather obvious, but caring for your yarny items can extend their lifetime significantly. Although everyone has accidentally shrunk a wool sweater in the washing machine at some point, it really is worth taking time to learn how to clean and store things properly.

CLEANING

Before you do anything, ask yourself whether your item really needs washing. Could you air it out instead, or spot-clean with a damp cloth? If only a proper wash will do, try to:

  • Handwash, or machine wash on the delicate/wool cycle, using just a little bit of wool/silk detergent. Pad out the load with a couple of bathroom towels to prevent excessive spinning.

  • Tackle stubborn stains with sunlight rather than harsh detergent.

STORAGE

In most parts of the world it's really hard to stop fibre-loving critters from getting into your home, so the best thing to do, at the very least, is to stop them from getting to your clothes. Storing your items properly will also help prevent them stretching or becoming misshapen.

When your items are in use:

  • Place any items bought second-hand in the freezer for at least three weeks, to kill off any moth eggs and such.

  • Store sweaters and cardigans flat, not on hangers.

  • Use lavender sachets or cedar wood (sand lightly every now and then to release the scent) to repel moths.

  • Riffle through cupboards and drawers regularly, to let in air and light, and to check for pests.

Out of season

  • Carefully check for signs of damage, fix anything that needs fixing, wash everything, and then store in vaccuum bags or plastic containers with lockable lids.

  • Use lavender sachets or cedar wood to repel moths.

MakersMaintenance - Storage - emmyandlien.jpg

2. FIXING PROBLEMS

As much as I think it's important to properly look after knit & crochet wear (and all clothes in general), that doesn't mean I'm precious about using them. The only way to honour the resources that go in to producing good yarny items (whether by me or a garment worker) is to wear them. That means, of course, that even with the best care they will eventually show signs of wear. Knowing how to deal with this, and keep items looking good*, is invaluable to extending their lifetime.

PILLING

Lots of fibres pill, from cheap acrylic to super-fancy, hand-dyed merino. I don't think there's much you can do to stop it (besides choosing a hard-wearing fibre, like Lettlopi wool, in the first place) but it is quite easy to solve: get a de-piller. With a little effort, yarny things look like new again (check out the difference on the socks below!). I have a wool comb as well as an electric de-piller. The latter is a bit of an investment, but worth it to me; all four of us wear wool for at least six months of the year, and it also helps me to keep my samples looking fresh for photos and shows. At the beginning of autumn I stick on a podcast and set to work on all the sweaters, hats, and socks. It's strangely therapeutic...

Remember: Gentle does it, even if it takes a little longer. Keep your fabric flat while you depill, and go very easy with fine fibres.

Handknitted stripey socks, halfway through a de-pilling session

Handknitted stripey socks, halfway through a de-pilling session

HOLES

Again, you can minimise the risk of getting holes by choosing hard-wearing fibres to begin with, and working to a tight gauge will also help. Otherwise, however, holes are kind of inevitable. My kids knock through their knees, I seem to have spikey elbows, and socks especially wear thin quickly. I really don't think a hole should spell the end of a garment's life, so over the years I've collected lots of mending materials as well as techniques. I won't lie; It's rare for me to actually get to the bottom of the mending pile, but I do try to plug away at it regularly.

My favourite techniques for yarny items are:

  • Darning - Probably the most time-consuming and fiddly fix, but I love how it looks. I use thrifted darning wool and leftover sock yarn, and don't worry about matching colours at all. It becomes a little creative outlet in itself.

  • Patches - Much as I love darning, really big holes on elbows and knees are sometimes just easier to patch. I like these knitted patches by Purl Soho, although I often use leftover bits of woven fabric as well. Etsy is a great place to buy ready-made wool patches.

  • Swapping out parts - For very frayed cuffs, the easiest fix might well be to simply swap them out. You can buy ready-to-sew ribbed cuffs, or make your own. For the kids fleece below I plan on using the legs of a pair of holey wool socks that I just didn't feel like darning. I’ll let you know how that goes!

  • Embroidery - More of an embellishment than a fix, and definitely not a quick one at that, but very fun to do.

MakersMaintenance - Mending - emmyandlien.jpg

STRETCHED/MISSHAPEN

Sometimes the reason an item is shoved to the back of the cupboard is because it's got so stretched it just doesn't fit anymore. No amount of de-pilling is going to make it look good. I find it intensely frustrating when this happens, because the cause of the stretching is often precisely the item having been so well-loved.

If the item is only a little stretched or misshapen, the first thing to try is to re-block it. If the item was made with a fibre that has "memory", such as a non-superwash wool, that might be enough to save it. If not, it's time to get creative (and a little brave, probably).

  • Reknit/crochet the problematic portion - Depending on how the item is constructed, you might able to work straight into the edge. I covered dealing with stretched hat brims previously. Otherwise, you will have to unravel or cut off a part, pick up live stitches, and re-knit/crochet from there. There are some good tutorials to be found on Pinterest for this.

  • Get the sewing kit out - Sometimes the best option is to look at the item from a tailoring point of view, and take in hems/seams or add a thin elastic.

  • Alter the thing completely - If taking in seams is likely to add too much weird bulk where it shouldn't be, and reworking a portion is just too hard, go for the chop. Re-work it into something totally new. The photo below shows a top and skirt that started life as a (shop-bought) above-the-knee dress. A very well-loved dress, until the bottom part stretched too much for its length. I didn't think I'd be able to take in the sides, nor re-knit the cabled bottom in a way I'd be happy with. So I cut it in half at the waist. The bottom half became a below-knee skirt, for which the A-line shape was perfect. I then added a couple of sections to the top-half, to make that part wearable too. It did take a while and tested all my sewing/knitting skills, but I now wear both items regularly (again).

Turning a misshapen dress into two wearable separates - emmyandlien.com

3. RESOURCES

HOW TO WASH WOOL - a more detailed blog post from MamaOwl, with great tips and a few FAQs

HOW TO GET RID OF CLOTHES MOTHS - another useful post from MamaOwl

VISIBLE MENDING - a beautiful, clearly-written book by maker Arounna Khounnoraj

MODERNE BRODERI - a GORGEOUS book on embroidering knitwear and clothing, by Warunee Bolstad (currently only available in Norwegian, but the Plystre site has kits and a short tutorial in English too)

BUYING SECONDHAND - though not related to caring for your knits, I had to include this series of Instagram stories by Africa from The Vitamin D Project. Her IG account is like an ode to all things woolly, she’s recently launched a website, and I love it all.

Do you have any tips for getting the most out of you knit & crochet items? Is there anything I’ve mentioned that you particularly love doing, or struggle with?? I’d love to hear about it in the comments!


* I want to add a note about the cultural sensitivity associated with wearing clothes that look "good". I'm fully aware that, as a thin white woman of obvious economic means, there is no danger in walking around in clothes that have been visibly patched up. Quite the contrary - "visible mending" is incredibly trendy and I would be lying if it didn't do my career any good; More than once I've been paid to mend or alter items for friends, after they've seen what I'm wearing. I very much doubt that would be the case if I were Black, or plus size, or visibly disabled, given all the tropes around wealth and skill that surround these marginalised groups.

I'm also aware that doing all of the things I've listed takes resources. Time, money, skill, in some way or form. Not all of us have them, nor can we be expected to obtain them. Do what you can, if you can.

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For the love of tiny stitches

I can't resist the beautiful halo of a thin alpaca, nor the intricacy of tiny stitches. The way lofty sheep’s wool blooms into the smallest of gaps and trap pockets of air. A little puff stitch that sits just so, sometimes concealed…

WindowIntoWinterShawl.ElineAlcocer.WM.jpg

You might have noticed that, as a rule, my patterns aren't of the quick-and-chunky variety. There's of course the odd exception (to prove the rule or, as my old English teacher put it, to bugger it up), but otherwise... It's lacy mohairs and bouncy 4-plies, a rugged DK at most.

I can't resist the beautiful halo of a thin alpaca, nor the intricacy of tiny stitches. The way lofty sheep’s wool blooms into the smallest of gaps and trap pockets of air. A little puff stitch that sits just so, sometimes concealed in folds of soft fabric only to pop out unexpectedly, delightfully. From a designer's point of view there are advantages too; Given the double-layer nature of crochet stitches, using lightweight yarns opens up possibilities that just aren't achievable with chunkier ones.

I do know that making a project in a lightweight yarn takes time. A lot of time. Often more than I have, too - when I'm making a hat as a gift or a sweater that will be outgrown by my kids in a season or two (if I'm lucky), speed matters. When it's something for me though, something that has to fit perfectly and that I will treasure for years...

It's okay if it takes a while. And it does. A sweater that I'm making as a personal project (as opposed to a work one, which I have to prioritise) can easily take me 3, 4, 5 months to complete. My first sock yarn cardigan took six months, I think? A Spring project turned into Autumn, but it was okay, still just as beautiful the next Spring.

Even if at the time, during the making itself, it sometimes feels like a bit of a battle. My children are almost-3 and 7, which puts them in the "Not Tiny but Still Quite Small" category. They still need me, a lot, and working out what I do and don't have time for is a never-ending brain teaser. I ring fence those 30 minutes at the end of every day with a fierce protectiveness. I'll squeeze in a few rows while I wait for a pot of pasta water to come to a boil, and I probably look forward to the children’s weekend screen time as much as they do. When I can involve them, even if it's just a case of making stuff alongside one another - they paint or build or make puzzles while I crochet - I do. Eventually and sometimes seemingly against all odds, the rows grow into a sweater or shawl.

I don't mean any of this in a "if I can do it, so can you", way. The only person who can understand the routines, needs and challenges in your household is you, especially at in this climate of uncertainty (as I write this Sweden has not been put in Coronavirus lockdown, but it very much feels like it's only a matter of time). Sometimes the only time-investment worth making is Quick and Chunky. But if you're in the mood for a few weeks, or months, of slowly plugging away at a swingy cardigan or a lacy shawl, I've got you covered.

IloCardigan.ElineAlcocer.9.jpg
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The thing about hats

I’ve been bitten by the hat making bug. For years I’ve made shawls/cardigans/socks/sweaters - anything but hats, really. And now suddenly I can’t stop. I’ve even set about designing one. But it’s not ready, because the thing about hats…

SnowberriesHatPreview.ElineAlcocer.3.jpg

I’ve been bitten by the hat making bug. For years I’ve made shawls/cardigans/socks/sweaters - anything but hats, really. And now suddenly I can’t stop. I’ve made nine since September. It turns out hats are quick, fun, and really good for using up odd skeins. Huh.

The impending festive season definitely has something to do with it. “Quick! Gift! Knit!”, I see everywhere, from chunky cables to classic rib to round-and-round-and-round sort of tubes. I get it, I do. Five of those nine hats were not for me or my own kids, not made out of necessity but for the heck of it. And seeing how happy they are, to receive something that is warm, pretty and (hopefully) a good fit has been really fun.

September Hat by Caroline Dick

September Hat by Caroline Dick

I’ve even set about designing one. I thought, I only have one hat pattern in my portfolio so far, I was given two skeins of perfect, midnight blue tweed at Edinburgh yarn festival, it’d be good for a bit of end-of-year publicity, etc.

The thing about hats, however, is that they’re like everything else I design. Best not rushed. When I rush, I make mistakes or end up with compromises I later regret.

The thing about hats, whether made for yourself or someone else, is that they’re like sandwiches. They always make the receiver happy, this fact you’ve taken the time to butter the bread all the way to the edges and melted the cheese to just the right level of bubbliness and maybe even gone the whole hog with all the toppings. I ate a rye bread open sandwich piled high with nut butter, apple slices, pumpkin seeds, dates and honey at a cafe in Edinburgh. The equivalent of a perfectly slouchy, nubbly grey hat with a little cable, perhaps?

When I stuck a sample of my new design on my best friend’s head, saw how much she liked it and how beautifully it accentuated her blue eyes… I had to let her keep it. I shared that sandwich with her, too.

SnowberriesHatPreview.ElineAlcocer.1.jpg

So I haven’t released the pattern yet. I’ve made an ochre sample and started another blue one, I’m working out multiple sizes, putting options for both a snug beany and a slouchy hat in… I won’t be able to say, “cast on this last minute Christmas gift!”, but I don’t mind. I like the idea of someone getting to this pattern in the quiet of January, or whenever suits them, of them taking their time over the tiny ridges and delighting in the little puffs that go up and up.

An act of spiritual belly-filling, in the making, the wearing and - for me as a designer - the not-stressing about “keeping up”.

See you in January?

P.S. If you do want to crochet a new hat this side of Christmas, I made some tweaks to the instructions for the Lomma Hat (it’s free"!) so they are easier to understand.

P.P. S. I will also be running a promotion cum fundraiser from 21 to 31 December, so follow my social media outlets if you want to keep an eye on that.

SnowberriesHatPreview.ElineAlcocer.2.jpg
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Nikkim Milo

My boys were spoiled this summer by the lovely Petra at Fru Valborg: she sent us some soft, handdyed Vinnis Colours Nikkim to try. I just needed to whizz it up into a couple of tops, oh the hardship. 

Vinnis Nikkim_Milo.2.jpg

This summer the lovely Petra from Fru Valborg asked if I wanted to try some new cotton she'd be stocking in her webshop. Would I?! To justify yet more yarn parcels arriving when I'm not exactly small of stash, I asked whether she might be happy to provide enough for a couple of tops for the boys {altruism on my part, and all that}. She was, and this arrived:

Vinnis Nikkim.jpg

Vinnis Colours Nikkim, a handdyed, hand-balled cotton produced by a fair trade, women's cooperative in South Africa. I've worked with this yarn before for a commission, and it's truly lovely. The colours are vibrant and enticing, while the cotton itself is much softer than you'd expect. Petra stocks lots of colours, and ships worldwide if you fancy giving it a try.

I decided to make another Sea Breeze Hoodie for the Bean in the "brick red" (because everything must be red at the moment) and "camel". Initially I had planned to make a mini Sea Breeze for the smallest boy in the "pacific blue" and "sand" shades for a bit of sibling non-matching matching, but my severe allergy to Making the Same Thing Twice put paid to that. 

I reached for a knitting pattern I had in my Ravelry Library but bollicksed up the first time: Milo by Georgie Hallam. I think it was the second thing I ever knit and as I don't fail gracefully, a second attempt seemed like a good idea. Luckily it went much better this time. It's a delight of a pattern, one I'd recommend to anyone with little people to knit for. The raglan increases are clever, the garter stitch is appropriately smooshy, the cables add interest. Best of all, there being no sleeves means it works up really fast. 

Vinnis Nikkim_Milo_SeaBreeze.jpg

I had the whole thing done in about a week. The small boy looks so snazzy in it, in my completely biased opinion, that I might even be tempted to make him another in wool now the weather is beginning to turn. With a different cable, mind (the pattern provides no less than six). 

Vinnis Nikkim_Milo.1.jpg

Disclosure: I was sent Nikkim yarn to try, free of charge. All images, words and opinions are my own.

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The best laid plans

... don't involve babies. Or maybe they do, in a roundabout way; When I set out to MAKE ALL THE THINGS before Bug's arrival I assumed I'd only get a fraction done. Turns out that this baby is indeed snug as a bug. 

MBJM Harem Romper

... don't involve babies. Or maybe they do, in a roundabout way; When I set out to MAKE ALL THE THINGS before Bug's arrival I assumed I'd only get a fraction done. Turns out that this baby is indeed snug as a bug. 

The Bean was nine days overdue, and back then the waiting drove me nuts. This time around I feel quite stoic about it, really. Yes, I'm aching and tired, I'm excited about meeting this little person, and I don't want to be clucking about for too much longer. But at the same time, when will I next get another chance to just potter, make stuff, snooze, snack to my heart's content? In about 2 years??

So I've been knitting/crocheting/sewing/sowing/nibbling all the things. 

I finished the Bean's Popcorn Vest and made a tiny Harem Romper. I made a Divided Basket for Bug's nappies.

Divided Basket (pattern by Noodlehead)

I finally got around to sowing for this year's balcony garden. I started, and to my complete surprise, have almost finished a scrappy baby blanket. I've also started on a Benedetta Cardigan for myself but as it's in sock yarn (AM I MAD??) it is not almost finished. But fun. 

Best laid plans... | blog post by Emmy + LIEN

Then there's this one and his Daddy. We've been making the most of our last days as a Three, even managed to get out for our first beach trip last Sunday. It happened to be the day before my birthday too, and the perfect opportunity to celebrate. Sunshine, burgers, ice cream. It was a lovely day, and everyone was happy. 

And now we wait. 

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When a Bean asks for Bobbles...

"Mummyyyy?... I want a bobbly jumper too. Can you make me one?"

Eline's Popcorn Vest | pattern by Studio Misha & Puff

There's this (bought) knitted cardigan I've had for years. It's nothing fancy, but it's warm, soft, and has the right greyish blue colour that goes perfectly with the army of stripey t-shirts my wardrobe seems to consist of these days. I wear it so often it lives on the back of my desk chair for a good six months of the year. Nothing fancy, just a really good work horse cardie. 

Except this year, somebody noticed it. Somebody with, I am increasingly inclined to think, as much of a love for all things textured and woolly and patterned and coloured as me. 

This cardigan has bobbles going down each of the front panels.

"Mummyyyy?... I want a bobbly jumper too. Can you make me one?"

I'm getting this more and more frequently now. He looks at something - socks, jumpers, hats, bags - thinks for a second, then turns to me and asks, "can you make me one?". He used to ask me to crochet rockets or trucks and things, but now he knows. Mama has a gigantic stash of soft wool that can be turned into soft wearable things. 

And I, of course, cannot say no. For the pleasure of the making, the giving, the delighted look on his face, I absolutely cannot say no even if I still have ten other unfinished things. 

So I scoured Pinterest and Ravelry for bobbly knitting patterns that would work with a DK wool, thinking anything heavier wouldn't get worn anymore this year and anything lighter would just take too long to make. The Popcorn Vest by Studio Misha & Puff jumped out at me and stuck. I showed it to the Bean and he approved, then we picked a lovely emerald green DK in a wool/nettle blend by Onion at my local yarn store, and it seemed we were good to go. 

Unfortunately the pattern only covers ages 0-24 months. However, you don't number crunch for your own patterns on a regular basis for nothing, and so after a bit of swatching, head scratching, tape measuring and guess work I decided to give it a try. 

popcornvest.1.jpg

I've put the details on altered stitch counts, dimensions and so on my Ravelry project page, in case you're interested, but basically it turned out to be quite doable to size up. It's a bottom-up vest that is split for the arm holes and then seamed only at the shoulders, so the only things to really watch out for are chest circumference and armhole depth. I cast on, thoroughly loved all the popcorns, and gleefully cast off some two weeks later. It's a joy of a little pattern, it really is. 

Eline's Popcorn Vest | pattern by Studio Misha & Puff

I think I could have done with slightly more generous sizing, but I swear he's had a huge growth spurt in the time it's taken me to knit this. Because I started with the intention of leaving a wee bit of growing room, I really did, but now it fits perfectly. Which, when you're four, means it's already too small. Bother. 

Still, he is very happy. We swapped the i-cord tie for a toggle, and he is thrilled he can do it up (and undo it and do it up and undo it and...) by himself. I love the colour on him. He loves the bobbles. It's perfect for this time of year, when it's too warm for a full-on wool jumper but too chilly to wear cotton hoodies. 

As it's a really fun, fast pattern to knit, I suppose it wouldn't hurt to think about working out the next size up. Or the next five, just to be sure. 

Eline's Popcorn Vest | pattern by Studio Misha & Puff
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Tiny Things

I can now count the number of weeks until Bug arrives on one hand. My desk is a happy mess of beads and things. I'll knit a little, dream of tiny outfits for those even foggier first weeks.

I can now count the number of weeks until the Bug arrives on one hand. It's gone so very fast, this time around. There are still a bajillion Emmy + LIEN-related things I want to get finished, and then there is the baby bed linen to get ready, the nappies to wash, the meals to freeze, the Bean to give my undivided attention to, the friends to catch up with while I'm still capable of holding a conversation, the ripped jeans to mend. 

I know, I know. I will be lucky to even achieve a tenth of those things, and the undone things won't ultimately matter anyway (mostly - I do worry about the thing with the Bean. Mothers shall worry). 

What I really need to be doing is to sit. And just be. This time around it's gone faster, but it's also been much more difficult. I feel like there is an earthquake going on in my belly, while in my head there is nothing but fog. My sleep is erratic, my moods even more so. I wake up in the morning feeling sore but alright, happy, positive about what is to come. By 2PM I'm so thoroughly p+ssed off with the muddled thoughts, the screaming hips, the lack of breath and the angry fireball lemons charging up my oesophagus, the general exhaustion and sheer hurtiness that I want nothing more than to press fast forward and get. this baby. out.

But fast forwarding children will never do and, in any case, as a wise friend of mine pointed out: they cause less trouble while they're in. 

While it's still in, then. I'll try to sit and be. My desk is a happy mess of beads and things. I'll knit a little, dream of tiny outfits for those even foggier first weeks. Maybe, IF I get the time, I'll plan ahead for summer and make a dent in the stack of fabrics that's been singing to me for months. The Bug will need rompers and popper vests and teensy leggings, while the Bean could do with some tank tops as well as a new sunhat. He's been asking for a bobble vest for weeks, so I've made a start on that. And I would love a lightweight cardigan for myself, so I'm itching to get the winder out. 

Again, I know. Realism will be required. But a girl can sit and day dream. 

Dribble bib (self-drafted) in Birch Organic | Lil Shepherd vest in Pickles Summer Wool | Teether toy in Birch Organic 

Barley Hat in Pickles Summer wool

A little, as yet unnamed experiment in de rerum nature Ulysse. Nope, I couldn't help myself...

Popcorn Vest in Onion no.4 Organic Wool + Nettle

TinyHandmadeThings.7.jpg

Mine, all mine:  Malabrigo Sock

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when Ruby met Maeve

About a year ago I decided to try being a little less random with my personal makes. It hasn't come easy to me; I've still ended up with some very last-minute makes and many more unfinished ones. Still, by the middle of last summer I did have one outfit that ticked all the boxes. 

Maeve shrug and Ruby Top | Handmade Wardrobe | Links to patterns in post

About a year ago I decided to try being a little less random with my personal makes. Less impulse buying of yarn, more looking at what would go with what is already in my wardrobe, planning a season ahead, that sort of thing. It hasn't come easy to me; I've still ended up with some very last-minute makes (I'm looking at you, 10-day birthday jumper) and many more unfinished ones. My wild optimism about the correlation between the outfits in my head and the ones my hands can actually produce has not been cured or even dampened, I would say.

Still, by the middle of last summer I did have one outfit that ticked all the boxes, that followed all the rules. Well, almost. I had impulse bought the fabric without the faintest notion of what I was going to do with it. But, once I'd spotted both Ruby and Maeve and thought, yes: I planned. I bought the patterns and the yarn.

Ethical, organic materials | Art Gallery Fabrics + Pickles Oslo wool

I made both as per the instructions as opposed to winging it. I properly finished every last seam and tucked in every end, and then I WORE THEM. Now we've seen the last of the snow (I hope) and Spring seems to finally be around the corner (oh, I hope!), I plan on wearing them LOTS MORE. 

Maeve shrug and Ruby Top | Handmade Wardrobe | Links to patterns in post

Ruby
Ruby is a combined top and dress pattern by Made by Rae. I like her modern aesthetic, and the instructions are extremely well-written with lots of tips. I'd never sewn an adult garment to a pattern before so I was nervous initially, but I didn't have any issues at all. The little gathers at the bust were just enough of a challenge to be interesting, without having me tear my hair out.

Ruby Top | design by Made by Rae

You'll have to take my word for it that it does fit me, even though I can't show you now - 7 months pregnant! Stupidly I didn't ask anyone to take pictures when it did, actually, still fit. Next summer! 

Ruby Top | design by Made by Rae

The fabrics are both organic cottons - the mustard one being woven and the flowery one voile - by Art Gallery Fabrics, and I love them. I want piles and piles more (but, time and money). 

Maeve

Maeve knitted shrug | design by Carie Bostick Hoge

The Maeve shrug is a design by Carie Bostick Hoge at Madder. As a knitwear designer she seem ubiquitous, and with good reason; her work has a classic, timeless feel to it without being stuffy. It is all just so, so wearable. 
This shrug is a good one if you're new to garment knitting. Super-simple shaping on the arms, and then loads of mindless knit stitch for the back and garter stitch for the collar. That collar, that collar... The whole thingis drapey, comforting, and very easy to throw on over pretty much anything.
The yarn is Summer Wool by Pickles Oslo: a blend of 70% organic cotton and 30% merino wool. It's unbelievably soft and smooshy, without either the stiffness of cotton or the overly-processed feel merino can have. Despite the name "Summer Wool" it saw me through most of autumn as well. It's pilling a little bit now, but nothing outrageous. 

Maeve knitted shrug | design by Carie Bostick Hoge

So there you have it. When Ruby met Maeve I threw on my favourite old jeans and, of course, of course some mustard yellow shoes. I think they got on rather well, don't you?

Maeve shrug and Ruby Top | Handmade Wardrobe | Links to patterns in post
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Cherry blossoms in the snow

Outside it's snowing again, but inside I cast my mind back to spring time in Japan: cherry blossoms and pretty colours. Introducing my latest pattern release, Hanabira, for Pom Pom Quarterly.

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As I type this, it is snowing outside my window. Very fine snow, twirling almost vertically in the fierce north-easterly wind. Slow to settle as the ground isn't quite frozen enough at the moment, but that will change in the next couple of days; It is still very much winter here. 

An odd time then, perhaps, to talk about spring designs and flower motifs. Or maybe perfectly timed - I get impatient for light and colour by about the middle of January, itching to cast off the thick, heavy layers and see something other than brown everywhere. Time to begin planning ahead? I don't know about you, but I'm a reactive, impulsive maker by nature. I feel cold and decide to make mittens, or realise I only have 10 days to knit a birthday gift and then just start. 

But that obviously isn't how the fashion industry works, so I finished the samples for spring back in November and right now I'm working on bits and pieces for summer. I find it funny, to be so out of sync with what's going on outside my window, but it's also useful. I'm trying to be more intentional with my making, less impulsive, so that I'll have what I need when I actually want to wear it. 

Here it is, then, one for the spring wardrobe: Hanabira

Image credit: Nicole Mlakar for Pom Pom Quartely

Image credit: Nicole Mlakar for Pom Pom Quartely

A cropped cardigan as whimsical as you can imagine. The flower detail in the colourwork bands in particular involved, literally, a flight of fancy; I cast my mind back to the birthdays I spent living in Japan, every year, when the cherry blossoms came out right on cue (or so it felt to me). "Hanabira" is Japanese for "flower petal". 

The rest of the cardigan is both easy to make and practical to wear. Top down with simple increases and some quick seaming at the sleeves. If you want a longer length on the hem (as in the top photo) or the sleeves, you just keep going before you get to the colourwork. The button band and collar are worked directly into the selvedge edges (there's a ribbing tutorial to accompany this pattern, in case you get stuck). 

The yarn is Ulysse by De Rerum Natura, a non-superwash 100% merino 2-ply (sport) from ethically reared European sheep. It feels properly "sheepy" too - slightly crunchy and much more structured than the heavily processed, slinky superwash merino we seem to have become so used to. I loved working with it and plan to revisit this brand in the future. 

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Hanabira is one of nine designs in issue 20 of Pom Pom Quarterly. The whole collection, indeed the entire magazine, is utterly delightful and I'm thrilled to be a part of it. I hear copies are almost ready to be shipped and, in the spirit of planning ahead and all that, I intend to cast on a Bombus or a Melli as soon as it lands in my letter box. You can order your own copy on Pom Pom's order page.

Pom Pom Quarterly issue 20
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Creative Life, Handmade Wardrobe, Knitting, inspiration Eline @emmy+LIEN Creative Life, Handmade Wardrobe, Knitting, inspiration Eline @emmy+LIEN

On woolly birthdays

Ten days before his fourth birthday I decided to make the Bean a celebratory jumper. Because ten days for a new jumper isn't at all unreasonable, is it?

Flax Jumper | Free pattern by Tin Can Knits

Ten days before his fourth birthday I decided to make the Bean a celebratory jumper. Because seeing all of Carie's beautiful knits for her three children gave me itchy fingers, and because ten days for a new jumper didn't sound at all unreasonable. Minus three, once I'd factored in the time it took to pick a yarn, order it and have it delivered. 

With six days to go I cast on Flax, a top-down, seamless raglan sweater with a garter stitch panel on the sleeves. It's a free pattern from the "learn to knit" Simple Collection by Tin Can Knits, and makes the perfect piece for those who lack experience or time, or both. Who suffer from boundless optimism and endless casting-on fever... It did take me longer than those six days, but it does fly off the needles, causes minimal headaches, and is ever so cosy on. 

So twelve days later and approximately three seconds after I'd sewn in the last ends, the Bean got to put on his birthday jumper. That was Thursday, five days ago, and he's worn it every day since apart from the one I hid it to get a chance to actually block the thing while he was at school. I think he likes it. 

The yarn I chose is Big Merino Hug by Rosie Green Wool, which made it as much a treat for mum as for the kiddo, really. 100% organic, ethically produced merino in "Ruby". It's buttery soft to knit with, doesn't split and blocks well. Yes, it costs a fair amount, but I've written about this before: in the spirit of leaving a lovely planet for the ones I love, there are some things worth paying for.

My Love: a freshly minted four-year-old who refuses to get a haircut, in some rare January sunshine, wrapped in a squishy merino knit. With crocheted dog ears for extra bonus cuddle factor. 

Flax Sweater in Rosy Green Big Merino Hug | Free pattern by Tin Can Knits
Flax Sweater in Rosy Green Big Merino Hug | Free pattern by Tin Can Knits

Oh and then for an extra bonus bonus: Daddy got involved in the posing. Because if you're going to sport a 70s bowl hairdo in 70s decor, well then you need the moves too, don't you?

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